S.M. Pontino

It is barely spring, but the crews of the various quarters are already training for the next rowing season. Here are the rowers of San Marco Pontino, seen from the Fortezza Nuova.

The same crew, a few days ago, at the entrance of the port.

See also: Trofeo D'Alesio 2011 - Red and Yellow - San Marco Pontino - Still Rowing - Warming Up

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The Hill on the Fortress

A couple of paved paths run across the top level of the fortress.

The “hill” in the middle of the fortress, actually an earthwork, is the only part of the park with trees.

From atop the north side of embankment we have a view on part of the Venezia and San Marco quarters.

See also: Fortezza Nuova (2009) - Fortress from the Sky (2012) - Welcome to the Fortress - The Grass of the Fortress - Along the Walls
Search labels: Fortezza Nuova

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Two Dogs and a Gull

We have already seen this couple of dogs on a roof, but this time they have company...

See also: Dogs on the Roof - Scali delle Cantine - Fortezza Nuova

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Code Red & Nutella

“Codice Rosso” would be Code Red, not the more tasteful name for a take-away pizzeria near the hospital.

“Pane e Nutella” (Bread and Nutella) in Via Sardi.

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Warriors

You can see this cast iron spearhead fence in Via Gramsci. A part of it is painted in (rusty) black,

another part in (dirty) white: they look like ancient soldiers facing each other.

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Illusion & Bistango

The 46-meter “Illusion” and the 62-meter “Bistango” on dry land for servicing before the coming season.

See also: Imagination & Illusion - Bistango e Reborn - Bistango
Search labels: yacht

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Six Stools

Stools outside the “Aragosta” (Lobster) restaurant in Piazza dell'Arsenale.

See also: December Chairs

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Isacco Bayona

Isacco Bayona was the son of Raffaele Bayona and Diamante Jacob. He was born in Greece, in Thessaloniki, on 21 July 1926. He was arrested in Gabbro (Livorno) with his mother, his elder brother Carlo and his younger sisters Lucia and Dora. They were all deported to the extermination camp of Auschwitz, Isacco was the only one who survived the Shoah.

See also: Stolpersteine - Not Even One Year - Perla - Dina and Dino
External links: Stolperstein - (Wikipedia) - Isacco Bayona (The names of the Italian Shoah)

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Along the Walls

One more ramp brings you up to the level of the walls with a view on the area of Piazza Garibaldi.

You can walk along the battlements and even reach one of the turrets above the entrance.

On the other side a wide meadow offers you a view on Scali delle Cantine and the basin of the Fosso Reale.

See also: Fortezza Nuova (2009) - Fortress from the Sky (2012) - Welcome to the Fortress - The Grass of the Fortress - The Hill on the Fortress
Search labels: Fortezza Nuova

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Vegliaia Breakwater

The Vegliaia breakwater, an island of sorts in front of the Terrazza Mascagni, was built at the end of the 19th century with the aim to protect the southern entrance of the port of Livorno.

We would like to say hi to our friend Beata from Gliwice, in Poland. Yesterday we had the pleasure to meet her in Florence for a stroll and a chat over ice cream and coffee.

See also: Terrazza Mascagni - Rough Sea - Lisbon Express - Largo Bellavista

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Egagropili

These balls of fibrous material are called egagropili and are formed by the remains of Posidonia oceanica, a species of sea grass that is common to the Mediterranean Sea. They wash up to our coasts in various shapes and sizes.

External links: Egagropili - Posidonia oceanica (Wikipedia)
See also: Borderland

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The Grass of the Fortress

Just outside the tunnel, a ramp lead us to the first level of the park inside the fortress, mostly grassland.

The same area from above, you can recognize the turrets and the palm tree at the entrance.

Another area on the same level, still closed to the public. In background we can see the octagonal dome of the church of Santa Caterina.

See also: Fortezza Nuova (2009) - Fortress from the Sky (2012) - Welcome to the Fortress - Along the Walls - The Hill on the Fortress
Search labels: Fortezza Nuova

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Splendida at Night

The 333-meter cruise ship “MSC Splendida” leaves the port of Livorno at night.

External links: MSC Splendida (Wikipedia)
Search labels: cruise ship

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Welcome to the Fortress

When you pass the gate at the entrance of the Fortezza Nuova, this is what awaits you.

On your right you have a battery of firing slits, once used to protect the entrance.

The (closed) gate on the right would give you access to a walkway outside the walls and along the canal.

The left tunnel brings you in the heart of the fortress, which is now the public park.

See also: Fortezza Nuova (2009) - Fortress from the Sky (2012) - The Fortress, at Last! - The Grass of the Fortress - Along the Walls - The Hill on the Fortress
Search labels: Fortezza Nuova

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Museo Fattori

This slightly dilapidated building is Villa Mimbelli, an 19th century residence surrounded by a beautiful park, not far from the Terrazza Mascagni. Yesterday's turtles live in a fountain at the entrance of this park. Since 1994 the villa hosts the “Museo civico Giovanni Fattori” with its interesting collection of works of the Livornese painter, along with many other works by fellow Macchiaioli and other local artists.

A few days ago in the course of a debate at a local newspaper, one of the candidates for mayor of Livorno said that the Fattori Museum is one of the most visited in Europe, but only we aren't able to realize this. This bold statement went unchallenged by anyone present.

See also: Terrazza Mascagni - Turtles
External links: Giovanni Fattori - Macchiaioli (Wikipedia)

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Turtles

There is a world living on this pile of rocks in a fountain of Milla Mimbelli. We have been here a couple of years ago and practically nothing is changed: the same bunch of abandoned turtles slowly circling around this small basin or trying to secure a place on the rocks.

After a swim they must climb on each other to find a place in the sun.

Sometimes they seem to be looking at you...

I wouldn't have ever dreamed to catch my reflection in the eye of a turtle!

See also: Slow Motion

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The Fortress, at Last!

Our Fortezza Nuova (New Fortress) has been closed since early 2009 and its reopening was announced at least six times in the past years. The local daily “Il Tirreno” has also published an interesting infographic with all the past missed dates.

At last, the park will reopen today with a ceremony and a feast of sorts. The first time I wrote about this closure I said that the fortress would have reopened in time for the local elections in June 2009.
I was wrong about the year, but not about the elections: the next ones are in May.

See also: Fortezza Nuova - Welcome to the Fortress - The Grass of the Fortress - Along the Walls - The Hill on the Fortress
Search labels: Fortezza Nuova

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Expressionist Bike

An hand-painted bicycle in Via Serafino De Tivoli, a street named after a painter of the Macchiaioli group.

Search labels: bicycle art
External links: Serafino De Tivoli - Macchiaioli (Wikipedia)

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Tape & Barriers

If someone breaks the large vase of a tree in Piazza Goldoni, all you have to do is to use some packaging tape and put a few safety barriers around it.

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Goodbye, Pogoria!

I happened to be in port when the “Pogoria” was leaving. They didn't need a tug: three members of the crew unberthed the ship on their own with the help of a rubber boat.

Then they sped along the moving ship to go back on board.

In a few seconds the “Pogoria” was already recovering her service boat, sailing away.

See also: Pogoria - Welcome Back Pogoria - STS Pogoria
External links: Pogoria - Gdańsk Shipyard (Wikipedia)

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Livorno Is Also Happy

After watching this little masterpiece we have enjoyed seeing the other videos made around the world, all inspired by the same Pharrell Williams' song. Ours is a really good one, compliments to the authors!
In my opinion the best is the one from Paris, but it is clearly made by pros. Other big cities, like London and New York, have been disappointing, while the most brilliant videos come from the East Europe, with a very funny one from Beijing. If you like, try to watch Moscow, Poznań, Budapest, Bucharest, Cluj-Napoca, Chișinău, Vilnius and even Kiev.

External links: Pharrell Williams - Happy (Official Music Video)

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Cristofano Allori

The main altar of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri: on the left is visible “Il Martirio di Santo Stefano” (The Martyr of Saint Stephen), painted by Giorgio Vasari in 1571. The painting is actually under restoration.

On a part of the gorgeous panelled ceiling of the church we can see “The Embarkation of Maria de' Medici at Livorno”, painted by Cristofano Allori in 1604. A detail of the painting, showing a bastion of the Fortezza Vecchia, is visible here.

See also: Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri - Marie de' Medici - Fortezza Vecchia - Molo del Soccorso
External links: Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri - Giorgio Vasari - Cristofano Allori (Wikipedia)

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Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri

The Order of Saint Stephen was created by Cosimo I de' Medici, first Grand Duke of Tuscany, with the objective of fighting the Ottoman Turks and the pirates that sailed Mediterranean Sea in the 16th century. The monument to Ferdinando I de' Medici in Livorno, better known as the Quattro Mori (Four Moors), celebrates the victories of the Order, with the Grand Duke himself dressed as its Grand Master.

Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri is a church in Pisa, in Piazza dei Cavalieri (Knight's Square), on the right side of the Palazzo della Carovana, the headquarters of the Knights. It was built between 1565 and 1569 as the church of the Order, on a project by Giorgio Vasari.

The bell-tower, also designed by Vasari, was completed by 1572 by Giovanni Fancelli.

External links: Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri - Order of Saint Stephen - Knight's Square - Palazzo della Carovana (Wikipedia)
See also: Four Moors

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Balcony Owl

An owl on a balcony wall, in corso Amedeo.

See also: Sunday Market - Sun, Moon and Starfish - Owls & Huskies

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St. Gregory Behind Barriers

Safety barriers are everywhere around Livorno: usually to protect the passers-by from the fall of debris from derelict buildings. Also the church of Saint Gregory the Illuminator, in its own small way, has a few of them now...
By the way, the sign says: “Livorno, Città Storica delle Nazioni” (Livorno, Historical City of the Nations).

See also: Half a Church - Saint Gregory the Illuminator - Faith and Charity - Armenian Plaque

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Cormorants on the Fortress

One of several cormorants resting on the roof of the Palazzo di Francesco. This is a building with a great view of the harbor, sitting on the Canaviglia bastion of the Fortezza Vecchia.

See also: Fortezza Vecchia - Canaviglia - Palazzo di Francesco - Miramare - The Cormorant

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Montcalm's Regiments

Louis-Joseph de Montcalm (1712-1759) was the commander of the French troops in Canada from 1756 to 1759, during the French and Indian War. Montcalm’s forces were defeated by the British general James Wolfe in the Battle of the Plains of Abraham, that culminated in Montcalm's and Wolfe's deaths, resulting in France losing Quebec. Montcalm, a controversial figure among military historians, was strongly criticized for his decisions, but also much memorialized, especially in France.

We have already seen the French anti-submarine frigate “Montcalm” and we are looking now at her Crotale launchers. The barrel of a M2 Browning heavy machine gun is visible on the left.

The 100 mm naval gun and the Crotale system above are named after regiments that were once under the command of Louis-Joseph de Montcalm in Quebec: La Reine and Royal-Roussillon.

External links:
Louis-Joseph de Montcalm - French and Indian War - James Wolfe - Battle of the Plains of Abraham - French frigate Montcalm (D642) - French 100 mm naval gun - Crotale (missile) - M2 Browning (Wikipedia)
See also: Montcalm (D642)

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IKEA in Pisa

Tomorrow a new Ikea store is opening in Pisa, while in Livorno retail shops keep closing. The Swedish giant put up an oversized living room in Piazza Cavour to remind us to flock to the opening.

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The Doors of the Synagogue

Our synagogue has three entrances, every one marked with a Jewish symbol. The left one has a Menorah, we are going to see the other two with the help of our friend Dina, of Jerusalem Hills daily photo.

Above the central door we can see the luchot habrit, the tablets of the covenant. On the right one are the letters alef, bet, gimel, dalet, heh. The letters of the Hebrew alphabet can also be also be numerals, so we have First Commandment, Second Commandment, and so on. It continues on the left tablet with the letters vav, zayin, chet, tet, yod: the Ten Commandments.

The lettering around the star of David, from right to left, says Kadosh la Adonai, meaning “Holy unto God”. The final letter, heh, is a way of writing God's ineffable name without writing it.

External links: Menorah - Tablets of Stone (Wikipedia)
See also: Synagogue of Livorno - Moses Montefiore - Inside the Synagogue - Rejoicing of the Law - The Old Synagogue - Around the Tebah
Search labels: synagogue

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