“Ardenza Mare” (Seaside Ardenza) is the part of the quarter of Ardenza from the “Via Aurelia” to the sea. Mostly villas or detached houses around here and plenty of fine details to catch.
I liked this pair lions, proudly standing and keeping their shields on top of the pillars of a gate.
This less lucky cat, standing outside an open air cinema, has got something different to bear: a bike tire thrown around his neck.
As promised, here are some details of the inside of the newly restored Mercato Centrale. On each side of the two entrances to the main hall there are two caryatids: a woman with a bundle of ears of wheat and another with an apron probably full of eggs.
The caryatids are eight, but these two figures are repeated four times. The originals were created in clay by the local sculptor Lorenzo Gori.
On top of the front and back arches flanked by the caryatids, we can see an elaborate composition of seafood and a simpler one of poultry.
Just before arriving to the Sonnino Castle we pass a road bridge on the spectacular cove of Calignaia, which we have seen in the last photo of yesterday post.
Further inland, up the valley amidst the “Colline Livornesi” (Livornesi Hills), we can see the destroyed bridge on the old road route, on the side of the railway bridge.
Another glimpse of the pebbled beach of Calignaia, one of the nicest places along the Livornese coastline. Even here a renowned hotel-restaurant with a spectacular view is perched near the northern side of the bridge. |  |  |  |
| Castello del Boccale | Torre di Calafuria | Castel Sonnino | Green Lizard's Bay |
This castle rises on a headland which is the highest point of the Livornese coastline, with 91 meters above sea level. On the north side of the cape lies the beautiful “Cala del Leone” (Lion's Cove). The small port of the castle is hidden on the southern side.
The Sonnino Castle was built at the end of the 19th century around another Medicean watchtower, called “Torre San Salvatore” (Saint Saviour Tower). It is named after its first owner, the Baron Sidney Sonnino, Minister of the Kingdom of Italy a the time. He loved so much the seclusion of this place that he asked to be buried in a grotto beneath the castle.
The stretch of raw coastline on the left is called “Sassoscritto” (Written Stone) because the rock is literally carved by the erosion. | |  | |
| Castello del Boccale | Torre di Calafuria | Calignaia | Green Lizard's Bay |
The “Torre di Calafuria” (Fury Cove Tower) is another former watchtower along the “Romito” trait of the Aurelia road, between Antignano and the hamlet of Quercianella.
It was restored in the early 20th century at the same time of the construction of the railway bridge on the cove, whose massive central pillar is visible behind the modern road bridge. The tower was used at the time to counter smuggling along the coast.
During summer it is practically impossible to find a free spot on these rocks, even if these waters could be treacherous for the unexperienced swimmers. A renowned restaurant, obviously called “Calafuria”, lies at the foot of the tower. | | | |
| Castello del Boccale | Calignaia | Castel Sonnino | Green Lizard's Bay |
The stretch of coastal road from Livorno to Quercianella follows the ancient Roman route of the “Via Aurelia” and is known as “Il Romito”. The “Castello del Boccale” (Boccale Castle) lies off the road, few miles south of Antignano, in a place called “Cala dei Pirati” (Pirates Cove) or “Boccale”.
Built as an old Medicean watchtower, it was transformed in a Neo-Medieval residence at the end of the 19th Century.
After a long period of neglect, the building was recently restored and divided into apartments. A small tower built in the park is used for storage. I'd like to thank my friend Paolo who drove us along the coast. | | | |
| Torre di Calafuria | Calignaia | Castel Sonnino | Green Lizard's Bay |
After a long time the hall of the “Mercato Centrale” is now free of scaffolding, so I payed a visit. I was even looking for the main source of pollution of my apartment.
Everyone has his kind of pollution, I live within meters from the exhaust of this coffee roasting plant, hosted inside the market. Almost every morning I spend at home I am “intoxicated” by the delicious smell of their roasting coffee.
This is their roasting machine, it is only a small family store called “Torrefazione San Paulo”, but the smell of their coffee is very far reaching.
